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search primary menu skip to content about francais 中文 search for: bringing the hangács vineyard back to life at disznókő november 23, 2016 christian seely leave a comment i was in hungary on monday tasting the outstanding aszú wines of the 2016 harvest with lászló mészáros. tokaj at this time of the year can be either extremely cold, or enveloped in thick mist, or both. but just occasionally there are days of early winter brilliant sunshine that reveal the full splendour of this wonderful wine region, and monday was one of those. view from szt tomas outside the village of mád of the vineyard of disznókő (centre right) and of the mount of tokaj in the distance one of the main reasons for my visit was to visit the site of hangács on the slopes above the main vineyard of disznókő, which we are in the process of replanting. this is a very exciting project for us. hangács has not been planted with vines since the 1960s, when it was abandoned by the then state farm which favoured plantings lower down the slopes, because easier to work with large tractors. but this hilltop site is unquestionably among the greatest terroirs in the whole of the tokaj region, and was cultivated for many centuries before the 1960s. in the 16 th century there are records showing that this particular vineyard belonged to the balassi family, in particular to the poet and soldier bálint balassi. lászló mészáros, the talented director of disznókő, clearly feeling rather good about the project, standing in the cleared hilltop site of hangács, with the mount of tokaj and the terézia chapel in the background. the soil is clearly well drained, as it was quite dry, whereas most of the surrounding land further down the hill with heavier soil, was still heavy from recent rains. this close up shows the distinctive volcanic soil of the hangács parcel. we shall be planting 22 hectares in total here, mostly with furmint. it is a substantial declaration of faith in the long term future of the great aszú wines of tokaj and a deeply satisfying project for us to be undertaking. something which was dying and had been abandoned will live again and in years to come once again produce great wines, as it did for many centuries. toasting the future of hangács with a glass of disznókő tokaji aszú 6 puttonyos 2008 over the years we have increasingly focussed on the individual characteristics of the various terroirs that exist within the great vineyard of disznókő. the kapi parcel, not too far from hangács, has notably produced some of the more remarkable aszú wines that we have produced at disznókő. we have every reason to believe that in future years hangács will be among the greatest of disznókő’s terroirs, and it is thrilling for us to be setting in motion the process of replanting this parcel and bringing it back to life. the afternoon finished with a glorious sunset over the hungarian plain. this is a special place. to know more in details about the replanting of hangács vineyard, visit the website of disznókő: http://disznoko.hu/disznoko-experience/replanting-hangacs-vineyard-the-next-big-project/ disznókő aszú hangacs lászló mészáros replanting tokaj the harvest is under way at pichon baron october 7, 2016 christian seely leave a comment we are enjoying a magnificent indian summer here in bordeaux, and with every day that passes the harvest of 2016 becomes more remarkable. 2016 was a year of contrasts, with an extremely wet start to the year, with record rainfalls until june, and then extremely hot and dry sunny weather until september. it was in fact so hot and dry that by the beginning of september we were slightly worried, as the grapes were not as ripe as we would have liked them to be at this stage. counterintuitively, such prolonged hot dry spells can slow down the process of photosynthesis in the vine and thus impede ripeness in the grapes. at this stage we desperately needed some rain in order to get things moving again in the vineyard, and then a prolonged period of good weather to bring the grapes to full ripeness. we might easily have been disappointed. rain when it came was considerable, and in theory at least slightly later than we would have liked. but this vital downpour of 30 mm on the 14th september, followed by 5 mm on the 16 th /17th had a very beneficial effect, and has been followed by a prolonged period of ideal weather: cool nights and mornings, and warm sunny afternoons. this has enabled us to take the harvest slowly, picking each parcel at the optimum moment, stopping for a day or two when necessary. the merlots are now in, and look excellent, with deep profound colour, near record levels of anthocyanes, and perfectly ripe fruit. i have just been tasting the first wines with jean-rené matignon and i cannot recall merlots with such concentration and structure here before. we are now moving on to the cabernets. this was how things looked on the great plateau of pichon baron yesterday, thursday the 6 th october. the grapes are very healthy, already ripe, and analyses show levels of anthocyanes reminiscent of 2010. they taste wonderful now, but will benefit from just a few days more of these ideal conditions to achieve perfect ripeness and concentration. next week will be grand cabernet week. we will continue to take our time, and should finish by the middle of the following week, around 18 th october, somewhat later than usual. the proof, as always, will be in the tasting when the world comes to bordeaux next spring to taste the wines, but here at this stage we are extremely happy with what nature has given us over the past few weeks, and we believe that a great vintage is in the making. château pichon baron bordeaux grand cru classé en 1855 harvest pauillac vintage2016 quinta do noval nacional vintage port 2001 and quinta do noval vintage port 2014 october 5, 2016 christian seely leave a comment i was in the douro valley last week, where the harvest is under way. after a very wet start to the year, we then had one of the hottest and dryest summers ever, so it has been a year of contrasts. harvest continues in excellent conditions, and we will know more about the final quality of the wines in a few weeks time, but it looks good so far. here is a picture of early morning harvest at quinta do noval last week, cagettes in the foreground, taken from the promontory at the end of the roncão valley, which is the midpoint of my morning run, with the douro and some of quinta da romaneira in the background. this is one of my favourite places in the world. the vines here are touriga nacional, which we planted in 2000 and which are already giving wines of outstanding quality. but quinta do noval was a good place to be anyway last week as we launched two great ports on the same day: our quinta do noval vintage port 2014 and our quinta do noval nacional vintage port 2001 . click on the links above to read what i wrote about these wines on the quinta do noval website. quinta do noval 2001 2014 douro nacional quinta do noval nacional vintage quinta do noval vintage vintage port a successful marathon for pichon baron september 14, 2016 christian seely 2 comments last saturday was the 32 nd marathon du médoc. as usual, we fielded a strong pichon baron team, of widely divergent sporting experience and ability, but all animated by the same enthusiasm for the event. we were thrilled that one of the members of the pichon baron team, freddy guimard, won the race, with an excellent time of 2:25. this was the first time that freddy ran with us, and his first marathon win. he is the french champion over ten kilometers, and clearly a superb and determined athlete, but also entered magnificently into the spirit of things here, happily trying wines from pichon baron, suduiraut and quinta do noval at dinner the night before. i would like to say that these wines had a performance enhancing effect, but if this were so, it would be hard to explain why my half marathon time the next day was slightly longer t
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